Outside the plate glass window, the storm slings flinty chips of snow into
the shocked cheeks of the New Yorkers. It rips at Whole Foods sacks of tinned
kidney beans and kelp snack storm provender; it snaps up five umbrellas – two
floral, one stripy – at the corner of Ludlow and East Houston in a single skip
of what must be a cold, cold heart.
But inside the storm: il laboratorio del gelato, where a dish of spheres awaits. The marble grey is black sesame, slowly showing a toasty warmth; the off-white is lychee, its sweet breath perfumed like a succubus.